Tokyo Sumo Grand Tournament Viewing Guide by a Former Sumo Wrestler

Hello, my name is Koike from Kawasaki Stable. I was a professional sumo wrestler for 12 years, and now I'm working to share sumo culture with the world through Kawasaki Stable.

If you're reading this article, you're probably thinking about watching real sumo when you visit Tokyo, Japan. As a former sumo wrestler, I would love for you to enjoy watching sumo in Tokyo, and I want you to enjoy this experience more than anyone else. The enjoyment of watching sumo isn't limited to just seeing the matches. Of course, the power of watching serious sumo bouts up close is something you can only experience at a sumo grand tournament. However, there are many highlights to see at Ryogoku Kokugikan, the venue for Tokyo's sumo grand tournaments.

I also want to share some TIPS from a wrestler's perspective that will make your sumo viewing and the entire day even more enjoyable. Unfortunately, you need the right timing to watch a sumo grand tournament, and there's also the issue of whether you can get tickets. I'll explain these matters as well.

Meanwhile, we operate a facility called Enter the Sanctuary at Kawasaki Stable, where you can experience the life and training of sumo wrestlers with former sumo wrestlers at any time. We'll share authentic sumo culture with more passion than anyone else, so please consider visiting our facility. We look forward to meeting you.

The Appeal of Watching Sumo Grand Tournaments That We Wrestlers Want to Convey

You can feel the power of serious sumo matches up close at the grand tournaments

The "Grand Tournament" (honbasho) is an official sumo contest held several times a year, for two weeks each time. Sumo wrestlers put everything on the line for these "grand tournaments" and compete seriously (I'll explain why later).

The greatest appeal of watching sumo is being able to see these serious matches up close. Of course, the distance from the dohyo (sumo ring) differs depending on the type of seat, but regardless of where you sit, the intensity is overwhelming compared to watching on TV or video. The impact of wrestlers colliding has been compared to small trucks crashing, and the sound is tremendous when seen in person. The atmosphere is also wonderful as the venue erupts with cheers for every movement of the wrestlers.

This is the greatest attraction of watching sumo grand tournaments in person at the Ryogoku Kokugikan in Tokyo. Even when I watch the grand tournaments at Ryogoku Kokugikan, I'm reminded of my active days and can't help but feel emotional.

Why are they serious matches? Sumo grand tournament results determine a wrestler's life

The life and treatment of sumo wrestlers

The world of sumo has a pyramid structure with the highest-ranking Yokozuna at the top. All of us sumo wrestlers train every day aiming to become Yokozuna.

| Category | # of ppl | Explanation | Rank | | ---------- | ---------- | | Makuuchi | 42 | Top tier wrestlers | Yokozuna
Ozeki
Sekiwake
Komusubi
Maegashira | | Juryo | 28 | Wrestlers whose skills are recognized | Juryo | | Wrestlers in training | about 500 | Wrestlers who need to prove their ability | Makushita
Sandanme
Jonidan
Jonokuchi |

There is only one way to become a higher-ranked wrestler: winning matches and achieving good results in the two-week "grand tournaments." If you want to become a Yokozuna, you need to achieve championship-level results multiple times.

In other words, sumo wrestlers train hard every day "to win at the grand tournaments." And that's why wrestlers of all classes compete seriously at the grand tournaments. Occasionally, wrestlers go on tours called "jungyo." These tours are held overseas as well. However, the seriousness of wrestlers is completely different between "jungyo" and "grand tournaments." You can only see serious matches between giant wrestlers at the "grand tournaments."

Impact of grand tournament results

Throughout the two-week grand tournament, we wrestlers first aim for a "winning record." This means achieving 8 or more wins out of a total of 15 matches. With a winning record, a wrestler's performance for that tournament is evaluated positively, and after review, there's a possibility of rising in rank.

Of course, to reach the highest ranks like Yokozuna or Ozeki, simply achieving a winning record is far from enough. You need to achieve 13 or more wins out of 15 matches, be in contention for the championship in multiple tournaments, or accomplish the feat of winning multiple championships. In other words, you need to achieve outstanding results in the fierce competition among top-ranked wrestlers.

If you become a high-ranking wrestler like Yokozuna, Ozeki, or Sekiwake, you receive a large salary and are treated like a major star in Japanese society. You become a figure who carries the tradition of sumo, Japan's traditional culture, and can earn the respect of many people. With that popularity and respect, you can gain many supporters and sponsors, and your income beyond your salary can be enormous.

After retirement, you can obtain important positions in the Sumo Association, become the head of your own sumo stable, or work as a television personality. Your post-retirement life is also secure. It truly can be described as a "Japanese Dream."

On the other hand, if you can't win matches and achieve good results in the grand tournaments, your rank as a wrestler may drop. What does this mean for a sumo wrestler? A demotion in rank not only severely damages a wrestler's pride but also significantly changes their treatment.

The difference between the Juryo and Makushita ranks is especially large. If you're in Juryo, you can live independently away from the communal life of the sumo stable and receive a significant salary. But Makushita wrestlers must generally live collectively in the sumo stable and receive no salary. They only get a small amount of pocket money once a month.

Furthermore, wrestlers in the Makushita rank must also serve as attendants for higher-ranked wrestlers in Juryo and above. No matter how much older you are or how long your career has been, as long as you're in Makushita, you must accept such a lifestyle. From the above, you can see that each match you watch at the grand tournament could change the future life and fate of us wrestlers.

That's why all wrestlers of every rank compete with utmost seriousness at the grand tournaments.

When and Where Sumo Grand Tournaments Are Held

Sumo grand tournaments are held in odd-numbered months, with six tournaments held annually for 15 days each. In Tokyo, they are held in January, May and September.

The schedules for 2025 have already been decided, so please check if you can watch a grand tournament by comparing with your travel schedule.

2025 Schedule

Tokyo - Ryogoku Kokugikan

The grand tournaments held in Tokyo take place at Ryogoku Kokugikan in Ryogoku. The Kokugikan, which translates to "The place for National Sports," is a sacred place for sumo, Japan's national sport. Therefore, Tokyo grand tournaments are never held anywhere else but at Ryogoku Kokugikan. Many sumo stables are also located around the Ryogoku Kokugikan.

The Ryogoku Kokugikan itself is like a museum hall engraved with sumo history and tradition, and it is undoubtedly the best place to watch sumo. Being the sacred place for sumo, three of the six annual grand tournaments are held at Ryogoku Kokugikan. Tokyo is the city with the most opportunities to watch sumo grand tournaments.

2025 Grand Tournament Schedule in Tokyo

• Every January, May, and September
• January 12, 2025 (Sun) - January 26, 2025 (Sun)
• May 11, 2025 (Sun) - May 25, 2025 (Sun)
• September 14, 2025 (Sun) - September 28, 2025 (Sun)

Access

5 minutes walk from JR Sobu Line Ryogoku Station / Toei Subway Oedo Line Ryogoku Station. If you're staying near JR stations like Shibuya or Tokyo Station, go to a major station where the Sobu Line passes, such as Shinjuku Station or Akihabara Station, and then transfer to the Sobu Line. If you're staying along Tokyo Metro or Toei Subway lines, it's best to transfer to the Oedo Line and head to Ryogoku. From any major station in Tokyo, it should take no more than 30 minutes to reach Ryogoku.

Osaka - Osaka Prefectural Gymnasium (Edion Arena Osaka)

In Osaka, a grand tournament is held every March during the spring season. Sumo is also popular in Osaka, and since it's held only once a year, tickets tend to be more difficult to obtain than for the tournaments held at Ryogoku Kokugikan in Tokyo.

2025 Grand Tournament Schedule in Osaka

• Every March
• March 9, 2025 (Sun) - March 23, 2025 (Sun)

Access

15 minutes walk from JR Namba Station, Kintetsu Railway and Hanshin Railway Osaka-Namba Station. 10 minutes walk from Subway Namba Station, Nankai Railway Namba Station.

Nagoya - Aichi Prefectural Gymnasium (Dolphins Arena)

In Nagoya, a grand tournament is held every July. Like the Osaka tournament, it's held only once a year, so people from the surrounding areas tend to rush to get tickets, making them difficult to obtain. The venue, Aichi Prefectural Gymnasium, is located near the famous Nagoya Castle, so you won't be bored before or after watching sumo. However, due to the aging of the venue, the tournament in 2025 will be held at a new venue called Aichi International Arena.

2025 Grand Tournament Schedule in Nagoya

• Every July
• July 13, 2025 (Sun) - July 27, 2025 (Sun)

Access

5 minutes walk from Nagoya Castle Subway Station.

Fukuoka International Center

The Kyushu Grand Sumo Tournament held every November in Fukuoka serves as the finale of the annual sumo season. Compared to tournaments in other cities, tickets are said to be easier to obtain, so if you're determined to see a sumo grand tournament, it's recommended to visit Fukuoka in November. People from Fukuoka and throughout Kyushu are known for their strong regional pride, and the tremendous cheers for sumo wrestlers from Kyushu are a highlight worth experiencing.

2025 Sumo Grand Tournament Schedule

• Every November
• November 10, 2024 (Sun) - November 24, 2024 (Sun)
• November 9, 2025 (Sun) - November 23, 2025 (Sun)

Access

12-minute walk from Gofukucho Subway Station/

Ticket Types and How to Get Tickets for Sumo Grand Tournaments in Tokyo

Ryogoku Kokugikan (Tokyo's Sumo Arena) has three main types of seats: I'll explain the characteristics of each seat type and how to obtain tickets.

Second Floor Seats

The Ryogoku Kokugikan has a two-story structure, with chair seats on the second floor. Since the arena itself is relatively compact, you can still fully enjoy the sumo matches even from these second-floor seats.

The most attractive feature is that these tickets are widely available to the general public and relatively easy to obtain. Tickets for other seat types are difficult to secure, so if you want to guarantee watching a sumo grand tournament, these second-floor seats are recommended. All seats are reserved, so once you've purchased a ticket, you're guaranteed a seat.

However, even among second-floor seats, there's a significant difference in the impact of watching sumo between the front and back rows. To secure front-row tickets, it's advisable to make reservations on the ticket sale date shown in the tournament schedule or purchase tickets through tour companies or travel agencies that have allocations.

Although second-floor tickets are relatively easy to obtain, they're still very popular and will sell out almost every day. You should book tickets as early as possible.

Food and drink are allowed in these seats, but bringing alcohol is prohibited. If you want to enjoy sumo while drinking alcohol, you should book masu seats instead. Also, if you only have a second-floor ticket, you cannot enter the viewing area on the first floor. If you don't follow staff instructions, you may be asked to leave, so please follow their guidance.

Masu Seats

Masu seats are box seats located at the back of the first floor in the Ryogoku Kokugikan. These aren't chair seats but rather square viewing spaces where several people can sit together to watch sumo. This style represents the traditional way of watching sumo.

Naturally, these seats provide a closer view of the dohyo (sumo ring) than second-floor seats, allowing you to enjoy the power and excitement of sumo matches even more. Food and drink, including alcohol, are permitted in these seats, enabling a festive viewing experience where you can enjoy beer with family or friends along with specialty foods like yakitori (grilled chicken skewers) offered by the Ryogoku Kokugikan. Since alcohol is not allowed in second-floor seats, this is a unique advantage of masu seats.

Originally, each masu seat was designed to accommodate about 4 people, but that was based on the average height of Japanese people in the past. If you're taller than 170cm, sitting with 4 people will feel quite cramped.

While it's possible to squeeze 4 people into one masu seat, I typically advise foreign visitors that 3 people is more realistic for comfort.

These tickets aren't easy to obtain. While there are general sales, they're preceded by lottery sales for official Japan Sumo Association Fan Club members and through long-established local ticketing services, so good seats are rarely available during general sales.

However, even without the best seats, you can still enjoy the powerful excitement of sumo, so I recommend trying to book tickets by accessing the Sumo Association's website on the ticket sale date.

You can also purchase masu seats through "ochaya" (teahouses) - official sumo viewing agents designated by the Sumo Association. However, in reality, they rarely accommodate one-time customers. Your best bet is still to try purchasing during the first day of general sales.

Sunakaburi Seats (Tamari Seats)

Sunakaburi seats refer to the first 4-5 rows on the first floor alongside the dohyo. These are special seats where you can watch sumo matches up close. These tickets are only available to those who have contributed to or are recognized by the Japan Sumo Association, and they rarely become available to the general public.

The only way to watch sumo from these seats is to create connections with sumo officials or others who have access to these tickets and watch together with them. If you're fortunate enough to watch sumo from these seats, even Japanese sumo fans would be extremely envious. You'll be able to witness the tremendous power and beautiful techniques of the wrestlers up close, creating a truly unforgettable experience.

Note that food and drinks are prohibited in these seats. Also, there's a possibility that wrestlers might be thrown out of the ring and land near you, so caution is required.

How to Maximize Your Sumo Viewing Experience

Now that you've successfully obtained tickets, here are some tips and knowledge to help you enjoy watching sumo to the fullest.

Tournament Schedule: First Day and Second Week, Especially the Final Day, Are Most Exciting

First, let's talk about the tournament schedule. A sumo grand tournament runs for 15 days. During these 15 days, as mentioned earlier, the wrestlers' ranks, future honors, and treatment are determined by their win-loss records. Therefore, the second week of the 15-day period tends to be more intense than the first week, as the tournament victory and individual wrestler records are at stake, resulting in more heated matches and cheering.

The final day (senshuraku) in particular is likely to be the day when the tournament champion is decided, creating an incredibly exciting atmosphere. Of course, the first day is also special. Sumo fans who have been eagerly waiting to see the tournament flood in, and the sight of them cheering for their favorite wrestlers is worth watching. If you've managed to secure tickets for both the first and final days, you can consider yourself extremely fortunate.

Tournament Timeline: Popular Wrestlers Appear After 2:00 PM

Now, let's look at what happens during a single day of the tournament.

Actually, sumo matches at the Ryogoku Kokugikan begin at 8:30 AM on tournament days. However, from morning until around 2:00 PM, the matches involve lower-ranked wrestlers, including those who have just become professional sumo wrestlers, and there are very few spectators present.

Until around 2:30 PM, when the matches of the more powerful juryo division wrestlers begin, the venue is sparsely populated, with only the most dedicated sumo fans cheering. This means the viewing environment is very comfortable, so if you're visiting the Ryogoku Kokugikan for the first time, it's a good idea to arrive before the juryo matches begin (around 2:00 PM) to enjoy the atmosphere of the venue.

At around 2:20 PM, the juryo wrestlers perform a ceremony called "dohyo-iri" (ring-entering ceremony). Around this time, the number of spectators increases, and the Ryogoku Kokugikan becomes more lively. Matches involving wrestlers with many fans begin here, and since these involve more powerful wrestlers, the matches become more intense. Even if you have other plans on the day of viewing, make sure to arrive at the Ryogoku Kokugikan after 2:00 PM.

Furthermore, at around 3:30 PM, the "dohyo-iri" ceremony for the makuuchi wrestlers (the highest-ranked division) begins. This is the highlight of the sumo grand tournament. The matches between top-ranked wrestlers aiming for victory are not to be missed. By this time, the venue is almost full, and the volume of cheering increases dramatically. Don't make the fatal mistake of missing the juryo or makuuchi matches just because you arrived at the Ryogoku Kokugikan early.

Sumo Rules and Highlights

Winning and Losing in Sumo

The rules of sumo are very simple. A wrestler loses if any part of his body other than the soles of his feet touches the ground, or if he steps out of the dohyo (the circular competition space). Wrestlers try to win by pushing their opponents, using their opponent's force to pull them, or grabbing the "mawashi" (the belt wrapped around the waist) to throw their opponents.

Power and Flexibility of Sumo Wrestlers

Because of these rules, sumo wrestlers strengthen their legs and core daily, eat a lot to increase their weight for pushing power, and undergo hard training to develop throwing techniques and flexibility to maintain balance even when destabilized.

While many people mistakenly think that a sumo wrestler's main characteristic is power, what will likely surprise you most when watching wrestlers in person is their incredible flexibility. Before matches, wrestlers perform various routines or rituals. One of these is "shiko," where they lift their legs high in the air. You'll be amazed at how high these massive men weighing over a hundred kilograms can lift their legs, demonstrating their remarkable flexibility.

Things to Know to Enhance Your Sumo Viewing Experience

Yobidashi (Announcer)

Before each match, when the wrestlers appear, their names, hometowns, and sumo stables are announced in a distinctive tone. This is called "yobidashi." Among the top-ranked wrestlers, there are now many who come from outside Japan. If you listen carefully to their hometowns, you might find a wrestler from your own country.

Cheering

During the yobidashi or just before the match begins, the crowd erupts with cheers. The traditional style of cheering involves fans of each wrestler loudly calling out their wrestler's name. If you find a wrestler you like, don't be shy—join in and cheer loudly for them by calling out their name. We wrestlers transform these cheers into strength to face our opponents.

Kensho (Prize Money Banners)

Before matches involving popular wrestlers, you'll see people carrying vertical banners around the dohyo. These are called "kensho" and represent the number of special prizes offered for that match. These prizes are paid by the wrestler's sponsors and supporters. For popular wrestlers, the number of kensho banners can be very high, requiring several laps around the dohyo. You can gauge a wrestler's popularity by the number of kensho banners.

Gyoji (Referee)

The gyoji is like a referee who judges the outcome of sumo matches. Gyoji are also ranked according to their abilities and careers, and only skilled gyoji can officiate matches between top-ranked wrestlers. Their attire and footwear also differ according to their rank.

Upsets and Giant Killings

"Bankuruwase" refers to giant killings where lower-ranked or younger wrestlers defeat higher-ranked wrestlers such as yokozuna (grand champions) or ozeki. When this happens, the venue buzzes with excitement and loud cheers.

Defeating a yokozuna in particular is called getting a "kinboshi" (gold star) and is considered a great honor. A yokozuna is a rank that can only be achieved by wrestlers who are overwhelmingly dominant and for whom defeat is barely acceptable.

If a young wrestler manages to defeat a yokozuna, the audience gets excited, and you might see spectators in the masu seats throwing their cushions toward the dohyo. While throwing cushions has continued as a traditional way for spectators to show excitement, the Sumo Association actually discourages this practice. This is because the cushions often hit people sitting in the front rows and could potentially cause injuries.

If an upset occurs and cushions start flying, enjoy the excitement but watch out for cushions flying from behind. Also, to avoid unnecessary trouble, please refrain from throwing cushions yourself just for fun.

A Sumo Wrestler's Recommended One-Day Itinerary for Watching Sumo in Ryogoku, Tokyo

10:00 AM: Arrive at Ryogoku Station. First, enter the arena and find your seat

If you're going to watch sumo, I recommend dedicating the whole day to enjoying sumo and related experiences. So, arrive at JR Ryogoku Station, which is next to the Ryogoku Kokugikan, around 10:00 AM. While Ryogoku Station gets crowded with people heading to the Kokugikan after noon, you can comfortably walk to the Kokugikan in the morning.

10:30 AM: Enter the Ryogoku Kokugikan and explore inside

The Ryogoku Kokugikan is just a few minutes' walk from JR Ryogoku Station. Let's go inside and check out your seat location. Just make sure not to throw away or lose your ticket stub, as you'll need it to re-enter the Kokugikan.

At this point, matches between lower-ranked wrestlers have already begun. There are probably few spectators, but it's a good opportunity to observe how the matches are conducted. Next, let's explore the Kokugikan itself.

On the first floor, there are shops selling boxed lunches, snacks, and a variety of souvenirs. These also get crowded after noon, so it's good to browse now and identify what you might want to buy later. The shops are open until around 3:00 or 4:00 PM, so you can do your actual shopping later. Walking around the Kokugikan, you can see photos of past yokozuna on the walls, get free programs with the day's match schedule, and view the trophies awarded to tournament champions. Just walking around and taking it all in will easily take 20 minutes or more.

Souvenir Shops

Popular items at the souvenir shops include hand towels with wrestlers' names and various snacks featuring sumo themes. These make perfect small gifts for friends back home.

11:30 AM: Lunch at the Chanko Restaurant in the Basement

After exploring the Kokugikan, let's have an early lunch while it's still not too crowded. In the basement of the Ryogoku Kokugikan, there's a space where you can enjoy "chanko," the traditional meal that sumo wrestlers eat. Chanko is a Japanese hot pot dish with chicken, various vegetables, and other ingredients cooked in a miso or soy sauce-based broth. The portions might be a bit small, but you can enjoy the same delicious chanko that actual sumo wrestlers eat at reasonable prices.

12:30 PM: Step Outside and Visit the Sumo Museum

After enjoying chanko, let's step outside the Kokugikan. As long as you have your ticket stub, you can re-enter the arena, so don't lose it. Next to the Kokugikan is the Sumo Museum. Here, you'll find numerous exhibits that allow you to learn more about the history and traditions of sumo that you're about to enjoy. Near Ryogoku Station, there are also facilities with various shops selling items related to sumo and Japanese traditions. Take about an hour to walk around and explore the museum and surrounding area.

2:00 PM: Watch the Makuuchi Wrestlers Arrive at the Kokugikan

After exploring the Sumo Museum and the area around Ryogoku Station, let's return to the Kokugikan. Around 2:00 PM, you might notice many people gathering outside the Kokugikan but not entering. This is because famous wrestlers start arriving at the Kokugikan around this time. They don't enter through a hidden back entrance but proudly walk through a dedicated passage next to the main entrance. Sumo fans wait outside to catch a glimpse of their favorite wrestlers. If you have time, join them to welcome the arriving wrestlers.

However, make sure to return inside the Kokugikan and be in your seat by around 2:20 PM. Otherwise, you'll miss the highlights.

2:20 PM: Don't Miss the Juryo Entrance Ceremony. The Real Show Begins Now

Around 2:20 PM, the matches of the juryo division wrestlers begin. Before these matches, there's a ceremony called "dohyo-iri" where the wrestlers line up in the ring and present themselves to the audience. This is a quintessential sumo scene that you shouldn't miss. From this point, the sumo matches themselves become higher-level and more intense. The amount of cheering also gradually increases.

3:30 PM: The Makuuchi Ring-Entering Ceremony Brings the Tournament to Its Climax

Around 3:30 PM, the ring-entering ceremony (dohyo-iri) for the top-division makuuchi wrestlers begins. By this point, the venue is likely full, with many people cheering as they watch the ceremony. The spectacular sight of wrestlers in luxurious mawashi belts surrounding the dohyo is impressive. Missing this would make one wonder why you came to watch sumo in the first place. Make absolutely sure not to miss this powerful ring-entering ceremony. From this point on, all matches feature intense battles between top wrestlers. You'll be able to watch matches involving yokozuna and ozeki, the highest-ranked wrestlers. Stay in your seat and enjoy the matches until the end.

6:00 PM: Matches End. Afterwards, Explore the Ryogoku Area

The final match of the day takes place just before 6:00 PM, followed by a closing ceremony that ends the day's tournament. Since many people stay until the end, the exit routes become very crowded. Getting a taxi will be extremely difficult. If you have time, it's a good idea to explore Ryogoku at night and enjoy dinner there. There are many restaurants to the east and south of Ryogoku Station, offering very local dining experiences. You'll find delicious tonkatsu restaurants and izakayas (Japanese pubs) that are popular with locals.

While there aren't many places that can accommodate English speakers, I encourage you to be brave and try these establishments. You'll surely enjoy delicious food while reminiscing about your sumo experience.

Tips for Watching Sumo at the Kokugikan from a Sumo Wrestler

Kokugikan Staff

Take a good look at the staff checking tickets at the main entrance of the Ryogoku Kokugikan or those working at the souvenir shops. Aren't they noticeably larger than other Japanese people? Yes, they are former sumo wrestlers like me who have retired. Retired wrestlers employed by the Sumo Association serve various roles at the Kokugikan, both visible and behind the scenes.

Like us, they've lived their sumo careers supported by fans, so they fully understand the importance of visitors. Feel free to talk to them. If they're not too busy, they might even pose for photos with you.

Recommended Food

Recommended foods at the Ryogoku Kokugikan include the previously mentioned "chanko" eaten in the basement restaurant and "yakitori" (grilled chicken) available at the shops. The yakitori features chicken thigh grilled over charcoal and topped with a sweet sauce—it's a specialty dish. It's no exaggeration to say that most sumo fans who visit the Kokugikan always buy it. Try it yourself and enjoy watching sumo while eating yakitori.

For Smokers

You might be a smoker. Like many other facilities, the Ryogoku Kokugikan generally prohibits indoor smoking. However, part of the terrace on the second floor is designated as a smoking area. If you want to smoke, please visit this smoking area and make sure to stay within the designated smoking enclosure.

Is Re-entry Possible?

Upon entry, your ticket is partly torn off, but the remaining half should stay with you. Don't throw this ticket stub away. With this stub, you can re-enter the Kokugikan any time during the same day.

Ways to Enjoy Sumo Beyond Tournament Viewing

If you're unfortunate enough to visit Tokyo when no sumo grand tournament is being held, or if you want a more authentic and essential understanding of sumo culture, there are various experiences and facilities available in Tokyo.

From my perspective as a former wrestler, here are some worth-visiting facilities and activities:

Enter the Sanctuary at Kawasaki Beya (Sumo Stable)

"Enter the Sanctuary" at Kawasaki Beya is a program that we former sumo wrestlers created and operate with a tour company called MagicalTrip.

This is a facility that repurposes what was once an actual sumo stable. In this genuine sumo stable environment, you can experience the training that wrestlers undertake daily, cook traditional sumo stable meals that build wrestlers' bodies, and communicate with real sumo wrestlers by asking various questions.

This is Kawasaki Beya—a facility where anyone can experience the reality and truth of sumo without taboos.

If you're staying in Tokyo, you can reach us in about 30 minutes by train from almost anywhere. There is no other facility like Kawasaki Beya in Japan. To be honest, Kawasaki Beya may be the only place in all of Japan where anyone can step onto a real dohyo and experience sumo. I would be delighted if you could experience this unique approach and directly connect with sumo culture.

All participants can engage in "butsukari-geiko," a kind of sparring session with the wrestlers, and experience training on an actual dohyo. Children can also step onto the dohyo and interact with real wrestlers, making this a very popular facility for families.

Morning Training Viewing

At several sumo stables in Tokyo, you can sometimes observe the morning training sessions that wrestlers perform daily when they're in Tokyo. However, these morning training viewings aren't open to everyone freely. Let's look at the guidelines for different sumo stables.

Alternatively, you could join a morning training viewing tour organized by a tour company. Morning training viewing is traditionally something that sumo stables voluntarily open to local people. Therefore, many stables won't respond to inquiries, and even with advance reservations, they might not inform you whether training will take place.

Also, during morning training, you might not be allowed to take photos freely or talk. This is because sumo is traditionally considered a sacred Shinto ritual. Since these aren't attractions designed for tourists, don't expect too much from the sumo stables. Breaking prohibited rules might result in being asked to leave.

These morning training sessions often have very early meeting times. Also, when the wrestlers are away in other cities for tournaments or tours, morning training isn't held at Tokyo sumo stables. Please understand that morning training viewing might be impossible depending on the season.

In many cases, opportunities for morning training viewing exist before and after the sumo grand tournaments held at the Ryogoku Kokugikan in Tokyo—typically in January, February, April, May, June, August, September, and October.

Tokitsukaze Stable Training Viewing

• Viewing hours: 8:00 AM to around 10:00 AM
• Reservation method: No advance reservations. Visit in the morning and if there's space in the viewing area, you can observe.
• Calendar: Not published. They won't answer questions about whether morning training will take place.
• URL: https://www.tokitsukazebeya.jp/keiko/

Arashio Stable

• Reservation method: No advance reservations. View from outside the stable through glass windows.
• Calendar: A calendar showing when morning training takes place is published on their website, though not guaranteed. Subject to change without notice.
• URL: https://arashio.net/tour.html

Asakayama Stable

• Reservation method: No advance reservations. Visit in the morning and if there's space in the viewing area, you can observe.
• Calendar: Not published, but they ask that you always confirm by phone the day before whether training will take place. They won't answer questions in English, so it's best to have your hotel concierge contact them.
• URL: http://asakayamabeya.net/practice_tour.html

How to Watch Morning Training Reliably

As mentioned above, sumo stables don't accept advance reservations for morning training viewing, and their training calendars are either non-public or ambiguous. Therefore, even if you wake up early and go to a sumo stable, you might find it already full or that no training is taking place—this happens frequently.

So how can you reliably view morning training? The only way is to join a tour organized by a tour company. While not limited to the stables mentioned above, some accept advance reservations through tour companies to avoid day-of confusion.

Please refer to the reservation calendars of MagicalTrip.

Sumo Restaurants

Recently gaining popularity in Tokyo are sumo restaurants where you can enjoy meals while watching sumo performances. The most famous is "Tonkatsu Tanaka," where you can enjoy tonkatsu (breaded pork cutlets) while watching historical sumo performances.

What you'll see is a show-like performance of sumo with high entertainment value. So it's better to visit with the mindset of "watching a sumo-style show" rather than "seeing real sumo."

While you might be allowed to enter the dohyo, only a very small number of people from those interested will be selected. So you should assume that you won't be able to get on the dohyo or wrestle with the sumo wrestlers.