The Charm of Ryogoku That Only a Former Sumo Wrestler Can Convey
Hello, I'm Koike, a former sumo wrestler. I believe those reading this article are interested in Ryogoku, located in Tokyo, Japan. First of all, thank you for finding my article.
For us sumo wrestlers, Ryogoku is a special district. I have 23 years of experience as a sumo wrestler, including 12 years as a professional. Therefore, Ryogoku, home to the Kokugikan (sumo arena), is like my backyard. All my memories, both good and difficult, are in this district. From my perspective, I'd like to share the charm of Ryogoku with all of you visiting Japan from overseas. Let me introduce Ryogoku from both a sumo wrestler's viewpoint and a local's perspective.
Perhaps you're visiting Ryogoku because you've secured tickets for a sumo grand tournament and want to explore the area? Or maybe you can't attend the tournament but still want to experience sumo culture? Or perhaps you're interested in experiencing the traditional culture and atmosphere of old Tokyo and Edo?
Ryogoku attracts many tourists due to its status as the center of sumo culture, but this is mainly around the Ryogoku Kokugikan area. Meanwhile, Ryogoku has traditionally been a vibrant area since the Edo period when Tokyo was the world's largest city, a place where common people's culture flourished. As a result, it still has various facilities and shops that convey the former appearance of Tokyo and Edo. From the perspective of both a sumo wrestler and a local, I want to convey Ryogoku's charm. I hope that after reading this article, more people will enjoy Ryogoku beyond just sumo.
Ryogoku is the Sumo District
When discussing Ryogoku, it's impossible to avoid talking about "sumo." The most prominent building in Ryogoku is the Ryogoku Kokugikan. It's truly the sacred ground of sumo. Three sumo grand tournaments are held there each year, attracting many sumo fans from all over Japan and now the world.
Additionally, many sumo stables, where sumo wrestlers train and live, exist around the Ryogoku Kokugikan. The sumo stable I belonged to was also located ◯◯ minutes from Ryogoku. Because Ryogoku is visited by many sumo enthusiasts, there are numerous sumo-related shops and many stores and restaurants that sumo wrestlers frequent in their daily lives. Ryogoku is a district where you might occasionally encounter sumo wrestlers with their distinctive topknots while walking around.
For those visiting Ryogoku to experience sumo culture or to watch a sumo grand tournament, I'll introduce some places where you can enjoy sumo culture more deeply.
Ryogoku Kokugikan + Sumo Museum
The first place I must mention is the Ryogoku Kokugikan, located just north of Ryogoku Station. "Kokugikan" means "The place for National Sports" and is the headquarters of sumo, Japan's national sport.
During the sumo grand tournament periods, you can't enter the Kokugikan without a tournament ticket, but during other periods, anyone can enter and look around for free. Unfortunately, the sumo ring is removed during non-tournament periods, so you can't see it when you enter, but the shop selling sumo-related goods that are only available at the Ryogoku Kokugikan and the Sumo Museum displaying sumo-related materials and items are still open.
The Sumo Museum is also free to enter, so even if it's not during a tournament, please enter the Ryogoku Kokugikan to experience the culture and atmosphere of sumo. On the other hand, during tournament periods, the place becomes crowded with sumo fans and those who have come to watch sumo from the afternoon. If you're coming to watch sumo, make sure to enter the Ryogoku Kokugikan by around 2 PM, even if you're planning to tour around Ryogoku. Sumo matches start around 8:30 AM every day, but from morning until around 2 PM, lower-ranked sumo wrestlers compete, and there are few spectators, so it's not very exciting. However, from early afternoon, sumo enthusiasts start gathering, and around 2:30 PM, the higher-ranked and more skilled wrestlers begin their matches. Therefore, even if you arrive in Ryogoku in the morning and plan to tour the recommended spots, it's best to head to the Ryogoku Kokugikan by 2 PM.
By the way, during the sumo grand tournament, you can re-enter the Ryogoku Kokugikan even if you go outside.
Numerous Sumo Stables
Since Ryogoku is the sacred ground of sumo, there are naturally many sumo stables around Ryogoku. Currently, over 10 sumo stables exist in the Ryogoku area. The term "sumo stable" refers to the place where sumo wrestlers train and also to the organization to which they belong.
Sumo is a traditional sport, so it values old customs. It's because of these customs and traditions that sumo remains a special sport. Because of this, sumo stables, which are groups of sumo wrestlers, maintain their traditional form. Sumo stables have many wrestlers belonging to them, with the "oyakata" (master) at the top as the owner. Wrestlers who are not yet recognized as full-fledged or who have not reached the upper ranks traditionally live communally in the sumo stable facilities while training.
The sumo stable community is compared to a family, with the master as the father, the master's wife as the mother, wrestlers who entered the stable earlier as older brothers, and those who entered later as younger brothers. Sumo wrestlers not only train but also cook traditional sumo meals, shop for ingredients, do laundry for everyone, and truly live communally with assigned roles. Because of this, you might see sumo wrestlers shopping for dinner or walking in the park around the sumo stables. Sumo wrestlers also frequent local shops and restaurants in Ryogoku, just like ordinary people. It's not uncommon to experience having a sumo wrestler in the same restaurant where you're eating.
By the way, at sumo stables, all wrestlers gather for group training particularly in the morning. This is the morning practice session of sumo. Although reservations are generally not possible, some sumo stables accept visitors for their morning practice sessions on days when they are held. Therefore, if you're planning to visit Ryogoku, it's worth researching in advance and visiting a sumo stable early in the morning.
However, observing morning practice is not a service aimed at tourists but rather an opportunity that sumo stables voluntarily provide mainly for local people. Therefore, visitors cannot make requests to the sumo stable, and the rules and precautions of each sumo stable must be fully respected.
If you violate any taboos, you may be refused entry or forced to leave. If you are fortunate enough to observe a sumo morning practice session, you are expected to behave with respect for the sumo wrestlers and sumo culture. It is definitely not a tourist show.
Places Where You Might Encounter Sumo Wrestlers
As mentioned earlier, there are many sumo stables around Ryogoku, so after morning practice finishes in the early afternoon, sumo wrestlers sometimes go out into the town. Therefore, you might occasionally see sumo wrestlers while walking around Ryogoku, especially in the southern area.
Ryogoku Takahashi
Sells sumo goods such as sagari (decorative apron) used in sumo matches, ranking envelopes, etc. Sumo wrestlers sometimes come here to shop. Also sells a large variety of other sumo-related goods.
http://edo-sumo.d.dooo.jp 4-31-15 Ryogoku, Sumida-ku, Tokyo 130-0026
Okadaya Footwear Store
Handles setta sandals and geta sandals that sumo wrestlers wear daily. Sumo wrestlers sometimes come here to shop.
1-17-10 Midori, Sumida-ku, Tokyo 130-0021
If you see a sumo wrestler, please refrain from taking photos secretly. It's simply disrespectful, and secretly taken photos of sumo wrestlers aren't interesting anyway. Try properly asking them if you can take a photo. Depending on the sumo wrestler, they might gladly agree.
Although sumo wrestlers are very large and have distinctive appearances, if you approach them with respect as human beings, they might happily cooperate in creating memories for your trip. On the other hand, there are also many restaurants in Ryogoku where former sumo wrestlers work or manage. Even though they've retired, they were once sumo wrestlers, so they still maintain impressive physiques. If you want to interact or communicate with former sumo wrestlers, the following restaurants are recommended:
Dosukoi Sakaba Ryoma
3-4-13 Narihira, Sumida-ku, Tokyo 130-0002
Mongolian Restaurant Ulaanbaatar
2F, 3-22-11 Ryogoku, Sumida-ku, Tokyo 130-0026
Enjoying the Traditional Sumo Meal "Chanko"
In sumo culture, there are several characteristic dishes. In particular, the hot pot dish, a representative dish of "chanko" traditionally eaten in sumo stables, is easy for anyone to eat and is popular among many Japanese people.
There are several restaurants in Ryogoku that serve this chanko. Since they're rarely found in other districts, I definitely recommend these restaurants if you're enjoying lunch in Ryogoku. Personally, I recommend the following chanko restaurants:
Chanko Kirishima
https://c-kirishima.com/shop.html
Sumo Chaya Terao
http://www.sumouchaya-terao.jp/chanko.html
Purchasing Sumo Goods as Souvenirs or Mementos
Of course, there are also shops in Ryogoku that sell sumo-related goods and sweets. Please visit these shops to look for souvenirs to give to your friends and family. You might find extremely Japanese items and sweets that can't be found anywhere else in the world.
Ryogoku Takahashi
An old sumo sundries shop with many sumo-patterned and sumo wrestler-patterned items. It's a very famous shop in Ryogoku that has been operating for over 100 years. It carries many practical items, including large cushions like those used in the box seats of the Kokugikan, which serve as Japanese-style cushions. Chopsticks with sumo wrestler designs would also make good souvenirs. The shop also carries specialized items used only by sumo wrestlers, so it's a store frequented by sumo wrestlers themselves.
Ryogoku Kokugido
A shop with many traditional Japanese sweets and confectioneries related to sumo, perfect for souvenirs. The dohyo (ring) shortbread cookies and anko (sweet bean paste) arare crackers are particularly popular! They also sell small Japanese toys for children, such as kendama (cup-and-ball), yo-yos, and rattling drums. With its easily accessible interior, it's recommended for tourists.
Shops Inside the Ryogoku Kokugikan
The shops inside the Kokugikan are packed with sumo-related goods. Like Takahashi, they sell sumo goods, but these are completely specialized in souvenirs. Towels and hand towels with sumo wrestlers' names are very popular as cool items among travelers. Miniatures of the banners with sumo wrestlers' names that stand in front of the Kokugikan would also make good mementos of your visit to Japan and Ryogoku when displayed in your room.
Ryogoku is a Traditional Downtown Area Where You Can Experience Edo Culture
Traditional Downtown Ryogoku
Ryogoku is a very historic district. About 400 years ago, a large bridge was built in Ryogoku, which became a key transportation hub connecting Edo and the eastern areas of Edo. As a result, it became a place where many merchants and travelers passed through, and consequently, many shops lined up in the area.
Around the same time, the Ekoin Temple was built and became beloved by many common people. About 300 years ago, sumo matches began to be held in the grounds of this Ekoin Temple, which is said to be the origin of today's sumo grand tournaments.
Ryogoku, which has continued since the Edo period, was also one of the districts that supported the common people's culture of Edo. Because of this background, many facilities and shops that allow you to feel the culture and customs of old Tokyo and Edo still remain. The townscape has not been completely modernized, and apart from the Ryogoku Kokugikan, it's not overly touristic, maintaining a very calm appearance of the good old Tokyo. That's why, regardless of whether you're interested in sumo, it continues to be loved by Tokyo locals.
Museums to Visit
There are several facilities that preserve and introduce Edo's common people's culture. There's also a museum of ukiyo-e, which is a representative of common people's culture and is said to have had a great influence on Western signature painters, in Ryogoku. When you're in Ryogoku, I really hope you'll visit the following facilities.
Edo-Tokyo Museum
I'd like to recommend this wonderful facility, but unfortunately, it's closed for renovation from April 2024 to 2025...
Located just behind the Kokugikan and within a few minutes' walk is the Edo-Tokyo Museum, a must-see facility for those interested in Tokyo's history. You can understand the history and cultural customs of the city from Edo to present-day Tokyo. The miniatures that convey the lives of common people in the Edo period are a must-see. Explanations in multiple languages are also well-prepared. Personally, I think it's one of the underrated museums that still doesn't attract many tourists.
Sumida Hokusai Museum
Located on the east side of Ryogoku Station, about a 10-minute walk from the station, is the Sumida Hokusai Museum. This museum carefully explains the works of Katsushika Hokusai, a representative painter of the Edo period. Katsushika Hokusai was born in Sumida-ku, where Ryogoku is located, so this area is related to him.
As many of you may know, Katsushika Hokusai was a master of ukiyo-e, a characteristic painting style of the Edo period, and his style and touch spread to Europe and had a great influence. It's said to have created a movement called Japonisme in 19th-century Europe, influencing many painters including Toulouse-Lautrec and La Tour. You can deeply understand the world of ukiyo-e, which was so characteristic and innovative, through explanations utilizing technology. Here too, explanations in English are well-prepared. This is a must-visit place if you're interested in art.
Sword Museum
This museum is a facility that preserves and displays numerous artistic swords and blades. It houses many globally renowned Japanese swords (nihonto) that are both beautiful and historically significant, allowing visitors to see various styles and variations.
Edo Noren
This is a facility that I have to mention because it's impossible to miss. It's a commercial facility directly connected to Ryogoku Station, characterized by its distinctively Japanese design. It features a sumo ring in the center, symbolizing the sumo district.
It houses restaurants and has benches, functioning as a rest area during hot summers and cold winters. However, from a local's perspective, the restaurants are just okay, and it gives the impression of being primarily for tourists. If you're in Ryogoku with limited time and want to grab something to eat, it might be worth a visit.
Restaurants Popular with Locals
Ryogoku is also an area where many locals live. Therefore, there are many non-touristy restaurants and eateries loved by locals that are popular. Since I've already introduced chanko restaurants, let me introduce other restaurants that offer delicious cuisine in Ryogoku. The staff at these restaurants may not speak English... or rather, they're more likely not to speak English. Even if English doesn't work, try pointing at the menu or using Google Translate to communicate in a friendly manner.
One thing I forgot to mention is that residents of downtown areas in Tokyo traditionally tend to be impatient and short-tempered. If you act arrogantly or with a superior attitude, you might be rejected outright, so please be friendly when interacting with locals.
Tonkatsu Hasegawa
Personally, I think "Hasegawa" is one of the most delicious tonkatsu restaurants in Tokyo. It's located in Yokozuna Yokocho, south of Ryogoku Station, and might be a bit hard to find as it's in a narrow alley within the yokocho. Both the loin and fillet are exquisite, with perfectly cooked, tender, and juicy pork that pairs excellently with the crispy breading. At night, they offer not only tonkatsu but also various small dishes, and many Japanese people use it like an izakaya with beer and sake.
However, it's a very popular restaurant. Especially on weekends, you'll likely need to wait in line for lunch, and it's safer to make a reservation for dinner. You can make reservations through Google Maps, so please consider this option if you're planning to eat in Ryogoku.
Waton
4-30 Ryogoku, Sumida-ku, Tokyo 130-0026
Genroku Nisohachi Soba Ryogoku Tamaya
3-21-16 Ryogoku, Sumida-ku, Tokyo 130-0026
Enjoying Dinner and Traditional Nightlife
The fact that many locals live in Ryogoku and that there are many delicious restaurants means that there are also areas where locals enjoy nightlife. By nightlife, I don't mean trendy establishments but rather izakayas, the traditional Japanese way of spending evenings, enjoying delicious food with alcohol.
There is a wonderful drinking district very close to the station. After watching sumo or sightseeing, instead of going to restaurants near your hotel or major stations, try enjoying the Japanese nightlife in Ryogoku.
Yokozuna Yokocho
This is a drinking district south of Ryogoku Station with small eateries gathered together. In the evening, it's bustling with locals enjoying after-work drinks, and sometimes sumo wrestlers visit to enjoy food and drinks.
Given its local yokocho character, you can't expect much English support, but please try to talk to the staff in a friendly manner using Google Translate or similar tools. However, Ryogoku is a downtown area of Edo. People from Edo are a bit impatient and short-tempered. Moreover, as it's a local yokocho, you can expect delicious food and drinks, but not the best service. If you act arrogantly or make excessive demands, you might be thrown out. That said, they are not exclusive, so try to approach them with respect and in a friendly manner.
Genghis Khan Yukidaruma Nakano Beya Ichimon Ryogoku Beya
3F Ozaki Building, 3-24-1 Ryogoku, Sumida-ku, Tokyo 130-0026
Kadoyama
3F Ryogoku Gai Building, 3-24-5 Ryogoku, Sumida-ku, Tokyo 130-0026
Shopping to Feel the Good Old Tokyo
Ryogoku also has shops selling sundries and items that let you feel the tradition of Tokyo or Edo. The nostalgic and retro atmosphere is now popular among young locals as a modest and cute design in this modern age. Since you've come all the way to Ryogoku, it's worth stopping by.
Sumida Edo Kiriko Hall
To be honest, I was hesitant to introduce this place because it's a 25-30 minute walk from Ryogoku. However, I'm including it because it's a place where you can experience making Edo's traditional craft, the beautiful cut glass work, which is a traditional craft of Tokyo.
The various glass vessels with red and blue geometric patterns are very beautiful, and you'll likely want to buy some to take home. You can either buy your favorite cut glass tableware or participate in the cut glass experience to cut glass and create your own unique piece. Please experience Edo's proud cut glass work.
MERICOTI
This unique shop sells comfortable room shoes that are modern arrangements of zori, the footwear of common people in the Edo period. These shoes are popular among Japanese people for their comfort, unique shape, and colorful variations.
You've probably never seen zori footwear before. Please pick them up and try this revived traditional Japanese craft.
By the way, you can also participate in a zori-making workshop here. Creating zori in your own colors is attractive, but one slight drawback is that it takes three hours. It's that authentic, but if you have time to spare, please participate.
Ryogoku Itinerary: Perfect for Nature Walks by the Riverside
Ryogoku is a town by the Sumida River, a large river. There are also gardens and temples from the old days, allowing you to enjoy nature through the seasons. Especially during cherry blossom season and autumn foliage season, the town has many varied attractions even if you're just taking a walk.
Remembering the times when I used to take walks to refresh myself, I'd like to introduce my recommended walking routes. I'm assuming you'll start from Ryogoku Station.
Recommended Walking Route
Ekoin Temple
First, walk south from Ryogoku to Ekoin Temple. While the north of Ryogoku has the Kokugikan and is all about sumo, the southern side is a local area. Walk south, cross the main street, walk one block, and you'll find Ekoin Temple.
This temple has more than 350 years of history and has been cherished by local people. The kind face of the Kannon statue standing at the temple gate, the rich green of the trees in the quiet precincts, and two cats relaxing freely make it a very peaceful and relaxing place.
Sumida River Terrace
After leaving Ekoin Temple, head west toward the Sumida River. Climb up the embankment and go down to the riverside. Along the Sumida River embankment, there's a wonderful walking path called the Sumida River Terrace that continues along the river.
In the refreshing atmosphere of the open Sumida River, you can enjoy cherry blossoms in spring and colorful leaves in autumn. Let's walk north along the Sumida River Terrace.
Ryogoku Terrace Café
When you walk along the Sumida River Terrace to around Azumabashi Bridge, climb up the embankment and head southeast. You'll see Kyu Yasuda Garden. Before entering the garden, take a break at Ryogoku Terrace Café. Enjoy a light meal or coffee in this location beside the garden.
Yasuda Garden
After a break at the café, head to Kyu Yasuda Garden. It's a wonderful Japanese garden that could be called an oasis in the city. At the center of this compact garden is a large pond, and flowers and trees that change their appearance with the seasons are beautifully designed and placed around it.
Walking along the small paths and bridges through the garden, you'll surely feel the refined beauty of a Japanese garden. This concludes the recommended walking route. Kyu Yasuda Garden is near the Ryogoku Kokugikan, so afterward, you can either go to the Kokugikan or easily go to another area from Ryogoku Station.
Places to Visit Along with Ryogoku
Ryogoku belongs to the traditional downtown area of Tokyo. If you're visiting Ryogoku and have time, I'd like you to extend your visit to adjacent areas worth visiting.
Kuramae
Kuramae is northwest of Ryogoku, across the river. Head north along the Sumida River Terrace, cross Kuramae Bridge to the west, and you're in Kuramae. It's also south of Asakusa, so you can further move from Kuramae to Asakusa. The Kuramae area has recently become lively, with a still calm atmosphere unlike Asakusa, which is overflowing with tourists. It's an area where stylish cafés and shops offering nice sweets have been increasing.
Ningyocho
Ningyocho is southwest of Ryogoku and is the center of Tokyo's venerable downtown. Cross Ryogoku Bridge and head southwest to reach this area. This area was once Tokyo's foremost entertainment district, and many historical restaurant streets remain as vestiges of that era. It's a very retro town with no redevelopment, and it's highly popular among locals.
Amazake Yokocho has various shops selling traditional Japanese sweets, perfect for enjoying wagashi with matcha.
It's not touristy and has a calm atmosphere. I think this area is the most underrated area in Tokyo. It's a bit far from Ryogoku but still about a 30-minute walk. It's good to visit while taking a walk. The area is also very lively at night, with many restaurants used by locals.
You're absolutely right - Ryogoku is a wonderful district that offers much more than just sumo. When you come to Ryogoku to watch a sumo grand tournament or observe sumo practice, I hope you'll refer back to this article.
Ryogoku is packed with Tokyo's traditional charms. I would be very happy if everyone enjoys their time in Ryogoku!
Thank you!